FAQs
How do you go about creating a new formulation?
1
It all starts with an ingredient. For example, the first two oils to catch my attention were bakuchiol and dandelion extracts. Bakuchiol extract is derived from the seeds of the babchi plant and is a lovely, gentle alternative to retinol that is not photosensitive. Dandelion extract is a powerful antioxidant with naturally occurring vitamins A, C, and E.
These were the two core ingredients I used to create Apothecary Serum No. 1. Once I latch onto an ingredient, I begin thinking about the types of formulas in which it will work well. From there, I explore other plant oils and extracts that pair nicely with my initial ingredient and support the intended function of the final formula.
Sometimes, a formula will exist in my mental space for months before I feel ready to begin experimenting with it.
What differentiates a face cream from an eye cream?
2
My face and eye cream formulations are designed to complement one another, so they often contain similar ingredients. Where they differ is in the concentration of those ingredients and in any essential oils they may contain. Because the skin around the eye area is especially delicate, I adjust ingredient percentages accordingly or eliminate certain ingredients altogether.
How are essential oils used in your formulations?
3
The scent profile of all my formulations is rooted in essential oils. For each formulation, I create a list of essential oils whose properties align with the intent of the finished product. From there, I experiment with the various aromatic notes to create a beautiful blend that complements the formulation and provides an enjoyable sensory experience.
There are very specific limits governing the use of essential oils in cosmetic formulations to help minimize the risk of skin sensitization. Each essential oil is carefully considered when determining appropriate usage levels, and any fragrance allergens that require declaration are identified and included in the ingredient list in accordance with applicable cosmetic labeling requirements.
Are these white label formulations?
4
No. Each of these formulations are 100% authentic to Ancient Ash. None of our formulas are sourced through the white label process. I take great pride in applying my 22 years of experience as a chemistry instructor to the creation of each unique formula. The white label process is interesting, in that it allows vendors to offer a skincare line while forgoing the research and development phase. If this is something that is interesting to you, please reach out. I am happy to help you develop a unique formula for your business or event.
Why do you only ship once a week?
5
Ancient Ash formulations are handcrafted in small batches. As a full-time high school science teacher and mom of very active teens, I budget my time thoughtfully to ensure that every formula receives the care and attention it deserves. For this reason, I follow a consistent shipping schedule that allows me to balance creativity, precision, and quality throughout the formulation process.
What does INCI stand for?
6
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It is a standardized system of names used to identify cosmetic ingredients, regardless of the supplier or trade name.
The INCI system helps me verify the identity of the ingredients I source for my formulations. I also cross-reference each ingredient with documentation provided by the supplier, including the Safety Data Sheet (SDS), when applicable. This allows me to better understand each ingredient’s identity, composition, and safety information and helps me make informed choices when selecting ingredients that align with Ancient Ash’s formulation standards.
Where do you source your ingredients from?
7
I am very selective about the ingredients I use and the suppliers I choose to source them from. All of my ingredients are sourced from suppliers in the U.S. and Canada who specialize in high-quality, sustainably sourced, plant-based ingredients intended for skincare formulations.